Mini Mermaid *Pattern*

Around a year ago, I made a hand-sized mermaid pattern on Instructables (which I’ve linked to previously and can be found here: http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Little-Crochet-Mermaid/ ). This is similar to that one, with a few obvious changes. One being the head-shape and another being the size. This mini mermaid is smaller (only 3.5in [8.89cm] long with the guage I used). I, personally, think that the proportions of this new pattern are much cuter.

-Mini Mermaid-

Supplies (information in parenthesis is what I used):
-Yarn (Järbo Garn Nova)
-Crochet hook to gauge with your yarn (D/3-3.25MM)
-Safety eyes
-Stuffing
– Yarn needle
-Scissors

Abbreviations:
R – Round
Ch – Chain
Sc – Single crochet
Sl st – Slip stitch
St – Stitch
Make the following pieces…

Head (make 1):
Make a magic ring.
R1 – 6sc inside the magic ring. (6)
R2 – 2sc in each of the next 6 sts. (12)
R3 – [1sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st]*6 times around. (18)
R4 – R6 – 1sc in each of the next 18 sts. (18)
Here is the point where, if you’re using safety eyes, you should insert them while the opening is still big enough. You can also secure the tail of your magic ring on the inside now.
R7 – [1sc in the next st, sc the next 2 sts together]*6 times. (12)
R8 – [Sc the next two sts together]*6 times around. (6)
Now you can stuff the head. I use the handle of one of my bigger hooks to help push the stuffing through the hole. If you’re having a hard time stuffing, take out a few stitches until the opening is big enough for you to stuff. Redo the stitches when you’re done.
Sew the opening closed and finish off the tail.

Arms (make 2):
Make a magic ring.
R1 – 3sc inside the magic ring. (3)
R 2 & R3 – 1sc in the next 3 sts. (3)
Finish, leaving a long tail.

Fins (make 2):
R1 – Ch 4. Turn. (4)
R2 – 1sc in the second ch from hook. 1sc in each of the next 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn. (3)
R3 – 1sc in the first st. Sc the next 2 sts together. Ch 1 and turn. (2)
R4 – Sc the next two sts together. (1)
Finish, leaving a long tail.

Bra (make 2) (optional):
Make a magic ring.
3sc inside the magic ring. (3)
Finish, leaving a long tail.

Torso (make 1):
Make a magic ring.
R1 – 6sc inside the magic ring. (6)
R2 – 2sc in each of the next 6 sts. (12)
R3 – R5 – 1sc in each of the next 12 sts. (12)
Finish off.

Tail (make 1):
Make a magic ring.
R1 – 3sc inside the magic ring. (3)
R2 – 2sc in each of the next 3 sts. (6)
R3 – 1sc in each of the next 6sts. (6)
R4 – [1sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st]*3 times around. (9)
R5 – 1sc in each of the next 9 sts.
R6 – [1sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2sc in the next st]*3 times around. (12)
R7 – 1sc in each of the next 12 sts. Ch. 1 (12)
With the ch still on your hook, take the torso piece and hold the opening end up against the opening of the tail. While the tail is facing you, sc through the front loops of both pieces all the way around. Before reaching the end, stuff the pieces. Sl st into the first sc of the round and finish off the tail. If you want to use different colors for the main piece of the tail and this border, just finish off the tail after R7 and continue with a new color.

Assembly:
Using the tail at the bottom of the head, attach the head to the top of the torso/tail piece.
With the face forward, sew the arms to each side of the top half of the torso.
Sew the fins to each side of the bottom of the tail. The widest, flattest edge should be sewn against the tail (the side where both yarn tails are coming out from).
Sew each bra piece to the chest and stitch a line around the torso to act as a bra strap.

Cut strands of yarn that are twice the length of the mermaid’s body.
Option 1: Fold a strand in half and, using your crochet hook, pull the folded middle portion under a stitch on the head. You should now have a loop on one side of the stitch and two strands sticking out of the other side. Pull the two strands over through the loop and tug tight. Here is a representation of how that looks from the old pattern:

Option 2: I’ve found that I tend to pull out a bit of stuffing whenever I use my crochet hook in making hair. A second way to do this with less stuffing loss is to use a yarn needle. Thread your strand of yarn through the yarn needle and pull it under a stitch as before. Only pull it about three fourths of the way through, but not all the way. With some of the yarn still sticking out of the other side, pull the needle back under the same stitch until you have two strands on one side and a loop on the other. Pull the strands over through the loop and tug tight.

After you’ve finished attaching all of the hair you can leave it as is or you can take the time to split each strand of yarn for finer hair (I prefer this look).

Done!

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Super Simple Ear Warmer Headband *Pattern*

Note to self: Don’t try to talk while people are taking photos of you.

Aaaanyway, this is an ear warmer headband that I made for my dad. 4th xmas present done!

The size I made this was to fit a grown man. It fits a little bit loose on me because I have a smaller head, but it still stays up. I used a size G/6-4.25mm Boye hook with two strands (beige and grey) of Marks & Kattens FLOX yarn. You can probably use any yarn that goes along with a G/6 hook, but I haven’t tried it. If you do, feel free to leave a comment and let me know how it went.

Abbreviations:
R – round(s)
sc – single crochet(s)
hdc – half double crochet(s)
st – stitch(es)

Chain 70 – Again, this is the size to fit a grown man. wrap the chain around your head to see if it is too loose or too tight for you. Add or take away chain stitches as needed. Join to the first stitch of the chain, making sure not to twist up your chain.
R1: Make 1 sc in the next 70 st. Join. Ch 2. (70st)
R2 – R9: Make 1 hdc in the next 70 st. Join. Ch 2 (on R9 just ch 1). (70st)
R10: Make 1 sc in the next 70 st. Join. Finish off.

That’s all there is to it and it can be done in no time at all!

Panda Twins *Pattern*

Xmas present #2 is done. Two little pandas for my niece. They are around 4.5 in (11.43cm) tall while sitting.

What you will need:
-Yarn A (any color. I used white for one and lilac for the other.)
-Yarn  B (black)
-Safety eyes (I used glass, teddy-bear style eyes.)
-Crochet hook
-Stuffing
-Yarn needle
-Scissors

You can choose whatever brand of yarn you’d like. I chose Marks & Kattens Flox  yarn with a size D/3-3.25mm Boye hook.

Abbreviations:
R – round(s)
sc – single crochet(s)
st – stitch(es)

Head (make 1)
With yarn A…
R1:
Make a magic ring and sc 6 inside. (6st)
R2: Make 2 sc in the next 6 st. (12st)
R3: [Make 1 sc in the next st. Make 2 sc in the next stitch.]*6 total times around. (18st)
R4: [Make 1 sc in the next 2 st. Make 2 sc in the next stitch.]*6 total times around. (24st)
R5 – R10: Make 1 sc in the next 24 st.  (24st)
R11: [Make 1 sc in the next 2 st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*6 total times around. (18st)
R12: [Make 1 sc in the next st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*6 total times around. (12st)
R13: [Sc the next two st together.]*6 total times around. (6st)
If you’re going to be using eyes with the little metal loops on the backs like I did, then now would be a good time to stuff the head and close it up. If you’re using safety eyes with the snap-backs, then you will want to wait until after you’ve sewn on the eye spots to close your head. Leave a long tail for sewing the head to the body later.

Eye Spots (make 2)
With yarn B…
R1:
Make a magic ring and sc 6 inside. (6st)
R2: Make 2 sc in the next 3 st. Slip stitch in the next stitch. (You will have made 7 stitches, but you will not have gone all the way around R1)
Leave a long tail and set aside.

Snout (make 1)
With yarn A…R1: Make a magic ring and sc 6 inside. (6st)
R2: Make 2 sc in the next 6 st. (12st)
R3 – R4: Make 1 sc in the next 12 st. (12st)
Leave a long tail and set aside.

Ears (make 2)
With yarn B…
R1:
Make a magic ring and sc 4 inside. (4st)
R2: Make 2 sc in the next 4 st. (8st)
R3 – R5: Make 1 sc in the next 8 st. (8st)
Pinch the opening closed so that it’s flat and sew closed across. Leave a long tail and set aside.

Putting the head and face together:
Place the eye spots on the head where you would like them to be, with the wider sides facing outwards, and sew them in place.
Sew the snout to the face between the eye spots (let it come up between the spots a little, but the majority of the snout will be below the spots). Remember that the side of the head with the tail is going to be the bottom of the head and place your parts accordingly. Stuff the snout before sewing completely around. Using your black yarn, embroider a nose and mouth onto the snout.
Now attach your eyes on top of your eye spots, positioned against the snout (as shown in the photo). Stuff the head and close the opening afterwards, if you haven’t already done so.
Sew the ears onto the top of the head, slightly off to the sides.
Finish off all tails except for the tail coming out of the bottom of the head.

Body (make 1)
With yarn B…

R1: Make a magic ring and sc 6 inside. (6st)
R2: Make 2 sc in the next 6 st.  (12st)
R3: [Make 1 sc in the next st. Make 2 sc in the next stitch.]*6 total times around. (18st)
R4: Make 1 sc in the next 18 st. (18st)
R5: [Make 1 sc in the next 2 st. Make 2 sc in the next stitch.]*6 total times around. (24st)
R6 – R8: Make 1 sc in the next 24 st. (24st)
With yarn A…
R9: Make 1 sc in the next 24 st. (24st)
R10: [Make 1 sc in the next 3 st. Make 2 sc in the next stitch.]*6 total times around. (30st)
R11 – R12: Make 1 sc in the next 30 st. (30st)
R13: [Make 1 sc in the next 3 st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*6 total times around. (24st)
R14: [Make 1 sc in the next 2 st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*6 total times around. (18st)
R15: [Make 1 sc in the next st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*6 total times around. (12st)
R16: [Sc the next two st together.]*6 total times around. (6st)
Stuff the body and sew the opening closed. Finish off the tail.

Arms (make 2)
With yarn B…
R1:
Make a magic ring and sc 5 inside. (5st)
R2: Make 2 sc in the next 5 st. (10st)
R3 – R12: Make 1 sc in the next 10 st. (10st)
Stuff the arm. Pinch the opening closed so that it’s flat and sew closed across. Leave a long tail.

Legs (make 2)
With yarn B…
R1: Make a magic ring and sc 5 inside. (5st)
R2: Make 2 sc in the next 5 st. (10st)
R3: [Make 1 sc in the next stitch. Make 2 sc in the next stitch.]*5 total times around. (15st)
R4: [Make 1 sc in the next stitch. Sc the next 2 st together.]*2 times. Make 1 sc in the next 9 st. (13st)
R5: [Sc the next 2 st together.]*2 times. Make 1 sc in the next 9 st. (11st)
R6 – R12: Make 1 sc in the next 11 st. (11st)
Stuff the leg. Pinch the opening closed so that it’s flat (the foot buldge at the end of the leg should be sticking up perpendicular to the direction of the flat end) and sew closed across. Leave a long tail.

Now you have all of the pieces that you will need. Using the tail you left at the bottom of the head, sew the head onto the black end of the body. Sew the arms onto the sides, following along a round about two rounds below the head. Sew the legs to the bottom of the body (on the white side). If you’d like the panda to easily be able to sit upright like the ones in the picture, attach the legs along a round a bit closer to the front of the body rather than directly beneath it.  Finish off all tails.

And there you go! A cute little panda for you to enjoy. The fun thing about this is that it works great in any color, or you could just skip the eye spots, make it one solid color, and you’d have yourself a regular teddy bear.

How to Wind a Center-Pull Yarn Ball

Have you ever gotten a good deal into a project and then realized you made a big error and had to scrap the whole thing? Well, that just happened to me with the project I’m currently working on. I know it can be really frustrating when you start to pull apart all of your stitches. Your work may have been wasted, but you can easily salvage your yarn back into an easy to use center-pull ball like the one you started with.

All you will need is the yarn you want to wind back up and your crochet hook. If you’re trying to wind up a very large amount of yarn, you will need a longer object like a knitting needle. The numbers below go along with the pictures.

1. Put the end of your yarn along the length of your crochet hook.
2. Fold the yarn back over and wrap it around both the hook and yarn towards the end of the yarn. Leave some of the yarn end sticking out the entire time. This is going to be your center-pull in the end.
3.-4. Turn again and start wrapping your yarn diagonally in the other direction. Repeat this process over and over until you’ve gotten a good bit of thickness to it.
5. Using the crochet hook to anchor your yarn, start wrapping long-ways, spinning the hook as you go along so that you’re not just wrapping in the same spot the entire time.
6. After you’ve gotten more thickness to it, start wrapping short-ways again. Repeat this process of alternating long-ways and short-ways wrapping until you’re almost out of yarn.
7. I always like to finish off with a bit of short-ways wrapping to hold everything together. Tuck the end of your yarn under some of the strands.
8. Now you’re done and can pull the crochet hook out of your yarn ball. If you wrapped it tight, this may need a bit of work (you can attach something to the end of your hook to help pull it out). Start crocheting again using the yarn end you left sticking out as your center-pull.

 

 

Bunny *Pattern*

This bunny has already been featured in two of my posts, so now it’s time to show how to make him!

What you will need:
-Yarn (any color. I used red.)
-Yarn (black)
-Yarn (white)
-Crochet hook
-Stuffing
-Yarn needle
-Scissors

You can choose whatever brand of yarn you’d like. I chose Marks & Kattens Flox  yarn with a size D/3-3.25mm Boye hook.

Abbreviations:
R – round(s)
ch – chain(s)
sc – single crochet(s)
st – stitch(es)

1 – Head (make 1)

R1: Make a magic ring and sc 6 inside. Join. Ch 1. (6st)
R2: Make 2 sc in the next 6 st. Skip over the chain of R1. (12st)
R3: [Make 1 sc in the next st. Make 2 sc in the next stitch.]*6 total times around. (18st)
R4: [Make 1 sc in the next 2 st. Make 2 sc in the next stitch.]*6 total times around. (24st)
R5: [Make 1 sc in the next 3 st. Make 2 sc in the next stitch.]*6 total times around. (30st)
R6: [Make 1 sc in the next 4 st. Make 2 sc in the next stitch.]*6 total times around. (36st)
R7 – R12: Make 1 sc in the next 36 st. (36st)
R13: [Make 1 sc in the next 4 st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*6 total times around. (30st)
R14: [Make 1 sc in the next 3 st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*6 total times around. (24st)
R15: [Make 1 sc in the next 2 st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*6 total times around. (18st)
R16: [Make 1 sc in the next st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*6 total times around. (12st)
R17: [Sc the next two st together.]*6 total times around. (6st)
Stuff the head and sew the opening closed. Finish off  the tail.

2 – Body (make 1)

R1: Make a magic ring and sc 6 inside. Join. Ch 1. (6st)
R2: Make 2 sc in the next 6 st. Skip over the chain of R1. (12st)
R3: [Make 1 sc in the next st. Make 2 sc in the next stitch.]*6 total times around. (18st)
R4: [Make 1 sc in the next 2 st. Make 2 sc in the next stitch.]*6 total times around. (24st)
R5: [Make 1 sc in the next 3 st. Make 2 sc in the next stitch.]*6 total times around. (30st)
R6 – R13: Make 1 sc in the next 30 st. (30st)
R14: [Make 1 sc in the next 3 st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*6 total times around. (24st)
R15: Make 1 sc in the next 24 st. (24st)
R16: [Make 1 sc in the next 2 st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*6 total times around. (18st)
R17: Make 1 sc in the next 18 st. (18st)
R18: [Make 1 sc in the next st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*6 total times around. (12st)
R19: [Sc the next two st together.]*6 total times around. (6st)
Stuff the body and sew the opening closed. Leave a long tail to help attach the head later.

3 – Legs/Arms (make 4)

R1: Make a magic ring and sc 6 inside. Join. Ch 1. (6st)
R2: Make 2 sc in the next 6 st. Skip over the chain of R1. (12st)
R3: [Make 1 sc in the next st. Make 2 sc in the next stitch.]*6 total times around. (18st)
R4 – R8: Make 1 sc in the next 18 st. (18st)
R9: [Make 1 sc in the next 4 st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*3 total times around. (15st)
R10 & R11: Make 1 sc in the next 15 st. (15st)
R12: [Make 1 sc in the next 3 st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*3 total times around. (12st)
R13 & R14: Make 1 sc in the next 12 st. (12st)
R15: [Make 1 sc in the next 2 st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*3 total times around. (9st)
R16: Make 1 sc in the next 9 st. (9st)
Stuff the leg/arm. Pinch the opening closed so that it’s flat and sew closed across. Leave a long tail.

4 – Ears (make 2)

R1: Make a magic ring and sc 3 inside. Join. Ch 1. (3st)
R2: Make 2 sc in the next 3 st. Join. Ch 1. (6st)
R3: [Make 1 sc in the next st. Make 2 sc in the next st.]*3 total times around. Skip over the chain of R2. (9st)
R4: Make 1 sc in the next 9 st. (9st)
R5: [Make 1 sc in the next 2 st. Make 2 sc in the next st.]*3 total times around. (12st)
R6: Make 1 sc in the next 12 st. (12st)
R7: [Make 1 sc in the next 3 st. Make 2 sc in the next st.]*3 total times around. (15st)
R8 – R13: Make 1 sc in the next 15 st. (15st)
R14: [Make 1 sc in the next 3 st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*3 total times around. (12st)
R15 & R16: Make 1 sc in the next 12 st. (12st)
R17: [Make 1 sc in the next 2 st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*3 total times around. (9st)
R18: Make 1 sc in the next 9 st. (9st)
Do not stuff the ear. Press it flat. Pinch the opening closed so that it’s flat and sew closed across. Leave a long tail.

5 – Tail (make 1)

R1: With white yarn, make a magic ring and sc 6 inside. Join. Ch 1. (6st)
R2: Make 2 sc in the next 6 st. (12st)
R3 & R4: Make 1 sc in the next 12 st. (12st)
R5: [Sc the next 2 st together.]*6 total times around. (6st)
Don’t sew closed. Leave a long tail.

6 – Eyes (make 2)

With black yarn, make a magic ring and sc 6 inside. Join. (6st)
Leave a long tail.

Using the long tails of the pieces you made, begin attaching them together.
Attach the head to the body using the tail you left on the body (with sc rounds going horizontally).
Attach the legs and arms along the bottom and side of the body with the flat end traveling along a sc round of the body. Try to attach the two legs to the same round to make them even (same with the arms).
Attach the ears to the top of the head a little closer to the back of the head than the front.
Attach the bunny tail onto the lower part of the back.
Attach the eyes to the lower half of the face. Using some white yarn, sew on a small white dot to each eye.
With black yarn, sew on an x-shape for the nose and mouth.
Finish off any leftover tails.

Carrot *Pattern*

Most of the crochet work I do is freehand, but I figured, why not write down a few patterns and share them from time to time? You can never have enough free patterns, right? Before I started this blog, I made a mermaid pattern and posted it to Instructables ( here ). I thought I’d share something a bit more simple today though.

So we have…. a carrot! I know. Exciting, right?

What you will need:
-Orange yarn

-Green yarn
-Brown yarn (optional)
-Crochet hook
-Stuffing
-Yarn needle
-Scissors

You can choose whatever brand of yarn you’d like. My orange yarn is Marks & Kattens Flox with a size D/3-3.25mm Boye hook.

Abbreviations:
R – round(s)
ch – chain(s)
sc – single crochet(s)
slst – slip stitch(es)
st – stitch(es)

With orange…
R1:
Make a magic ring and make 3 sc inside. Pull the tail to close the ring. Join. Ch 1. (3st)
R2: Make 2 sc in the next 3 st. Join. Ch 1. (6st)
R3: Make 1 sc in the next 6 st. (6st)
-I would like to note that at this point, I stop joining and chaining at the end of each round. This helps to avoid a seam in the finished product. The only downside is that you have to be more careful with keeping count since the beginning of the next round is not as visible (using a marker helps). If you want to continue with the “Join. Ch1.” then feel free. If not, then just start each new round directly into the next stitch (you’re going to skip over the chain of R2).
R4: [Make 1 sc in the next st. Make 2 sc in the next st.]*3 total times around. (9st)
R5 & R6: Make 1 sc in the next 9 sc. (9st)
R7: [Make 1 sc in the next 2 st. Make 2 sc in the next st.]*3 total times around. (12st)
R8 & R9: Make 1 sc in the next 12 sc. (12st)
R10: [Make 1 sc in the next 3 st. Make 2 sc in the next st.]*3 total times around. (15st)
R11 – R13: Make 1 sc in the next 15 st. (15st)
R14: [Make 1 sc in the next 4 st. Make 2 sc in the next st.]*3 total times around. (18st)
R15 – R18: Make 1 sc in the next 18 st. (18st)
R19: [Make 1 sc in the next 5 st. Make 2 sc in the next st.]*3 total times around. (21st)
R20 – R29: Make 1 sc in the next 21 st. (21st)
R30: [Make 1 sc in the next 5 st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*3 total times around. (18st)
R31: [Make 1sc in the next st. Sc the next 2 st together.]*6 total times around. (12st)
R32: [Sc the next 2 st together.]*6 total times around. (6st)

Using the small opening you now have, stuff the carrot. Sew the opening closed and finish off the tail.

With green…

Using the posts of the last round you crocheted, sc 6 in a circle into the top of your carrot. Join. Ch1.
Make 1 sc in each st around for 2 rounds (6st).
[Sc in the next stitch. Ch 9. Turn. Skip the first ch and make one sc in the next 8 ch. Slst into the same st as your last sc.]*repeat this in each st around. You should end up with 6 protruding pieces. Finish off your tail.

You now have a carrot! You can choose to stop here or you can choose add the brown scratchy, stripey details that I did. What are those called on a carrot anyway?

For this, you will need your brown yarn and yarn needle.
Starting anywhere on the orange part of your carrot, thread the yarn in an over-under pattern across a few posts of a crocheted round (as shown in the picture above). Pull the yarn through and, along the same round, thread over-under the opposite posts than before to create the appearance of a solid brown line. Do this several times in different spots on the carrot (varying the length of the line). Finish off your tail.

Done and done!